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Author Archive

Penjagaan rumput musim tengkujuh

Posted by mynormas on December 14, 2011

Di sini saya sertakan beberapa tip yang boleh digunakan di padang golf, padang bola, lain-lain padang rumput turf dan/atau halaman rumah.

  1. Membaja pada waktu ini hampir boleh di ibaratkan mencurah air ke daun keladi. Baja tersebut akan mengalir ke dalam longkang, sungai, parit ataupun tasik di sekeliling. Hentikan guna baja terutamanya jika baja tersebut tidak mempunyai bahan ‘slow-release’. Sebaiknya; gunakan baja foliar yang boleh di serap dengan pantas oleh rumput. Sembur sedikit tetapi selalu.
  2. Elakkan atau kurangkan penyemburan racun serangga. Jika terpaksa; perhatikan cuaca. Jika hujan lewat petang; sembur awal pagi. Cuba untuk gunakan racun serangga jenis sistemik (racun serap) yang akan masuk ke dalam rumput dan menjadikan rumput ‘tak sesuai’ di makan oleh serangga.
  3. Elakkan atau kurangkan penyemburan racun kulat. Jika terdapat masalah penyakit; cuba dahulu untuk mengatasinya dengan menaikkan ketinggian potongan (jangan TAK potong), kurangkan trafik lalu di kawasan berpenyakit (kurangkan sebaran dan stress), pangkas pokok atau alih perabot untuk menambah aliran udara dan cahaya matahari. Jika penyakit berterusan, lihat langkah penggunaan racun serangga di atas.
  4. Jangan benarkan mesin atau alat yang berat untuk masuk ke dalam padang yang basah. Ini akan memburukkan mampatan kerana padang yang basah akan bersifat lembut. Membenarkan mesin masuk akan meninggalkan kesan tayar yang akan berlarutan hingga berbulan-bulan. Ia juga akan menyebabkan lecak atau becak yang memburukkan pandangan. Jika tanah tidak terlalu basah/lembik dan anda terpaksa memotong JANGAN potong mengikut garisan/stripe kerana ini akan meletak tayar di atas garis dan boleh membuat lekuk.
  5. Cuba gunakan plant growth regulator (PGR) seperti Primo untuk melambatkan pertumbuhan.
  6. Tebuk tanah dengan spiker, slicer, solid-tine, hollow-tine kecil dan apa-apa saja (pen lama, garfu lama dan sebagainya)

    Menebuk lubang di kawasan berlumut. Lumut adalah simptom kelembapan tinggi. Bantu air mengalir di kawasan berlumut.

    supaya membantu air dan udara untuk masuk kebawah. Tebuk sekurang-kurangnya setengah inci (asalkan tembus thatch).

  7. Sembur agen pembasah tanah (soil wetting agent) untuk membantu air turun. Sembur pada waktu tanah tidak tepu dengan air.

Sentiasa baca label, gunakan pekera yang terlatih dan gunakan akal sebelum menyembur sebarang jenis bahan kimia ataupun baja. Jika ragu-ragu; hubungi Pakar Rumput.

Posted in Fields, Golf Course, Lanskap, Padang Golf, Rumput halaman rumah, Taman | Tagged: , | Leave a Comment »

Good greens: a price to pay

Posted by mynormas on December 7, 2011

Get your copy of Asian Golf Busines

 

There is a price to pay to being the perfect or keeping a golf course in perfect condition. And it is not just about the money. It is also the cost of using all the extra chemicals, fertilizers and cultural practices to the environment. I guess the next time we hear someone comments about the state of Malaysian golf courses, at least we can say “Our golf courses are safer for our environment”. Yeah. Right.

One article in the latest issue of Asian Golf Business discusses about whether golfers are spoiled in wanting nothing at all to spoil their golf game – in the context of golf course conditions.

I do agree on one thing: most golfers want green speed faster than what they can handle. I never could understand that. Even at 8feet they will be 3-putting and they want the greens to be at 9feet.

Get your copy of Asian Golf Business Nov/Dec 2012 for the full story (about the golf course conditioning, not the golfers).

 

Posted in Golf Course, Golf Course Superintendents, Maintenance | Leave a Comment »

Vacancy: Golf Course Superintendent

Posted by mynormas on December 2, 2011

There is a vacancy for a Course Superintendent post in a Klang Valley golf course. For those who are interested, please send me your resume and, in your email or as cover letter, mention, in not more than 100 words about why you should be The Chosen One.
Please don’t ask me which golf course it is and don’t tell me your guesses or show me that you know which one – I will respect you anyway. If you think you want to take a challenge, or leave your current job or, what the hell, see how much you are worth; why not give it a try? The figure that they mentioned to me was five-figure but my question is: is the applicant worth it?
Go ahead, you can tell your other friends too.

Gambar hiasan/File pic. Nothing to do with the vacancy. But yeah, maybe something to do with the job.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a Comment »

The Star: Maintenance of landscaped areas.

Posted by mynormas on December 1, 2011

Part of my comments was published in the Star newspaper 30 Nov 2011. What was missing was the ‘how-to’ tips to do it. Maintaining turfgrass areas is a challenge at any time but to do it in the current weather condition is especially tough. With the rain washing away whatever was applied, the lack of sunlight affecting growth and the amount of water overwhelming the drainage system; it is hard to make the place look good while at the same time not waste resources or pollute the environment.

Here are some tips that are relevant to golf courses, football fields, other sports fields, public parks and yes, even lawns.

  1. Fertilizing in this weather will just enrich the drainage/river/pond waters surrounding the area (it will enrich the fertilizer companies too). Stop using fertilizer granules especially if it has no slow-release or controlled-release component; actually that is sound advice at any time in our climate. Instead; use foliar fertilizer that will be absorbed faster by the grass. We may have to apply at low dosages but at closer intervals to provide enough nutrients required by the grass.
  2. Hold the insecticides. ALL insecticides. If there is an urgent need to apply them, be mindful of the weather pattern. If it rains in the evening, spray early in the morning. Use systemic insecticide that will absorbed by the grass or find one that has low toxicity, half-life and/or is non-persistent.
  3. Hold the fungicides. When first faced with what seems like a disease problem, deal with it without using chemicals first; raise the cutting height, reduce traffic, prune trees surrounding the area to increase sunlight and air circulation. If you still have to do it, see advice for insecticides as above.
  4. (Not) making the cut. Send out the mowers only if the ground is hard enough to hold the machine. Compaction happens when a heavy enough object presses down on soft ground and its water that makes the ground softer. If/when you can mow; use lighter/back pack/push mowers to do so. And also, forget the beautiful stripes or lines on the golf course fairways or football fields; continuously mowing in the same paths will create ruts, especially in this weather.
  5. Consider using a plant growth regulator to slow down plant growth.

    What is importan is to punch through the thatch so that water can flow down. And when you topdress, the sand will hold.

    This guy had old hollow-tines welded to a piece of metal welded to a long handle so that the workers can punch the holes manually.

  6. Spike, slice, solid tine or do whatever you can to puncture the surface to help water to flow down with whatever you have (old fork, 10-inch nails etc). You don’t have to go deep, as long as you can go below the thatch layer which should be about half an inch.
  7. Apply soil wetting agent regularly, though preferably should do before the field is saturated with water.

If the field was flooded, the most important thing to do is to remove the layer of silt that would be clogging the surface. Use clean water to wash it off if your area is small or whatever other means you can think off; light dethatching or worse come to worse, schedule hollow-tining in February. Do not topdress on top of the silt. You’ll be creating a layering problem.

As always, read labels, use trained staff and common sense to apply any sort of chemicals. That includes fertilizers too. And if in doubt, refer to the turfgrass expert.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a Comment »

Majalah Laman: “Klinik Rumput”

Posted by mynormas on November 30, 2011

 

 Majalah Laman telah bermurah hati untuk memberi ruangan soal jawab tentang rumput kepada pembacanya. Banyak soalan yang di jawab di situ boleh membantu ramai persoalan penggemar lanskap/rumput. Selain itu, majalah ini juga dipenuhi banyak artikel dan maklumat untuk orang ramai. Satu persoalan yang saya selalu di tanya dan di jawab dalam isu terbaru Nov – Dec 2011: penggunaan bahan semulajadi (contohnya serbuk kopi atau tembakau) untuk menghalang serangan serangga.

Dapatkan majalah ini di kedai buku terdekat anda atau layari http://www.karangkraf.com/e-majalah/lamanimpiana untuk maklumat lanjut.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a Comment »

Golf Malaysia: An interview.

Posted by mynormas on November 25, 2011

In November 2011 issue of Golf Malaysia, I talked about why golf courses (this applies to homeowners too) who don’t think they can’t afford high maintenance cost in the future, should stick to local grasses.  Why bother spending so much money buying and growing in imported grasses during the initial construction – or renovation – and then let it all go to waste in the next five years due to poor maintenance? I know:- some people will argue that “the grasses are actually not imported, we bought/got them from a neighbour” but it is still grasses that came from overseas and require high maintenance.

But why not plant local grasses or grasses that have adapted to local conditions that will require cheaper maintenance? After all, the first part of Integrated Pest Management is about selecting the right plant for the location.

It is a long interview. What you see here is only the 1st page. Get your copy at the newsstand and most respectable golf clubs or Pro-shop. Or go to http://www.golfmalaysia.com.my to subscribe.

Posted in Golf Course, Golf Course Superintendents, Padang, Padang Golf, Rumput secara am, Taman | Tagged: , , , , | Leave a Comment »

Weeds

Posted by mynormas on November 18, 2011

Most people don’t pay too much attention to those grasses that don’t seem to belong to the rest of the grasses surrounding them. The reason being those grasses doesn’t usually impose themselves on people.  Other than aesthetics that is. Even if the grasses seem – at first glance – to be similar, there is that slight difference in colour, texture or something that makes people dislike.

What are these grasses?  How did they come to be where they are?  Why are they left alone?  How do we get rid of them? Should we get rid of them?  What are they called?

They are called – other than the colourful names some people use to describe them – weeds.

A weed is defined as a plant that grows where it is not wanted. So, because of the  definition, a rare black orchid growing in the middle of a fairway would be attacked by changkul-wielding workers before we can finish saying “Rare black orchid is a weed?” Similarly, a banana plant three feet from the pin on a green is a weed, never mind the nutritional qualities of a banana.

These weeds are called ‘sedges’ and they love wet areas.

Weeds are transplanted in many ways. Assuming a particular golf course or field or taman is constructed, planted and maintained to perfection (this would presumably be on Planet Krypton), weeds can be transported by wind, animals, water, humans or machinery.  Sometimes it could also inadvertently be transported by the maintenance staff when they borrow a machine or equipment from another place. This does not only necessarily mean from one golf course to another, but also from one hole to another in the same golf course.

Why Weeds Happen – During Construction.

You would think that no one would plant a weed on their field. No one intentionally would; but sometimes that’s what happens when the owner/manager purchases new planting material like seeds, stolons or sods. To cut cost the planting material might be purchased from the nursery that gave them the lowest quote.  Chances are that these nurseries may not apply the best management practices to ensure weed-free materials. How else can they quote so cheap?

Are they planting pure grass stolons are are there weeds seeds mixed in? Did you check? By now, can anyone check?

What some nurseries do is to regularly mow their plots to keep most weeds down to the same height as the surrounding grasses.  And when they smell a potential sale, they do a hurried manual weeding job before the buyer’s representative arrives for an inspection visit.

For golf courses, this may be the same scenario if we get our planting material – especially in big quantities – from the award-winning golf course that our boss has friendly relations with.  You don’t think they will rip off their best greens and fairways to give us the stolons do you?  You might as well ask for their right arm.  We may get away with getting the stolons during their renovation works like hollow-tining or verti-cutting.  Just be aware that it’s almost impossible to be weed free on all 18 holes (we are not on Planet Krypton) and a verti-cutter machine going on a weed the size of the palm of your hand will create hundreds of tiny baby weeds waiting to sprout on the golf course.

Actually, the story can begin long before the first planting material is purchased.  It starts when the soil is being prepared for planting.  When the earth was pushed to make way for a golf course, or when the soil is expertly shaped waiting for the planting of the seeds or stolons of the chosen species of grass, it contains planting material of many different species of plants. Each and every viable seed is a potential weed waiting for the right time to sprout.

There are, of course ways to treat the soil – from simply turning the soil over to expose the seeds to sunlight to the complex way of covering it with plastic sheets and injecting it with chemicals – which, by the way, should only be done by licensed applicators.

If you are planting your own field/lawn visit the nursery, ask the supplier to show you which part of nursery they want to harvest for you, then on planting day, insist that they do NOT harvest before you or your rep being there. You don’t want them to show you one part of the nursery then harvest from another part to plant in your field/lawn.

Why Weeds Happen – During Maintenance

As so often is the case, an ill-advised attempt at cost reduction is usually the root cause of many evils when aesthetics is one of the performance indicators.  You will hear me repeat this line often: nothing is free in this world; we will pay for it one way or another. Maintain the grass poorly, it will not grow well and, in this instance, will provide an opportunity for weeds to move in.  We will eventually spend money to remove the weeds from the golf course. This paragraph will still hold true when I write about disease or pests in the golf course in future articles.

Poor maintenance can cause weeds, this drainage line was left open. So weed came in.

In short; do not expect the maintenance staff to cut costs to the point the grass’ health suffers.  Starve it if you must. But make it suffer it you mustn’t.

In the quest for being environmentally friendly, some golf courses used organic fertilizers to feed their grasses. Now, these organic fertilizers are good food for the soil as much as it is good for the grass, but if we calculate on the amount of nutrient it can deliver, it may prove to be quite expensive. Fertilizer made from organic products that are not properly treated may contain weed seeds. Chicken dung and other animal waste or even products made from plant waste may be contaminated at source or during the process to turn it into plant food.

There is a legend of how a Superintendent of a golf course placed an order of several tons of processed chicken dung fertilizer.  The purchasing clerk, who with good intentions, believes that all chicken dung are alike proceeded to buy the cheapest one available.  The cost of weeding the golf course in the months afterward probably is much higher than the savings on the purchase of the fertilizer.

Weeds can occur in places where there is compaction, such as high-traffic area. Or wet/damp areas. Or dry sandy areas. Different weeds will thrive and specialise in different areas.

The Cure

So now you know where weeds has its roots (pun intended) and you want to roll up your sleeves and ask your maintenance staff on how you can help fight this scourge on the grass field.

How does the staff take care of the weeds?  He/she has quite a few things in his arsenal. First and foremost are the mechanical means, which includes sending an army of labourers digging up the weeds with small screwdriver-like implements. It works to a certain extent; at the very least it controls the population of the weeds. More often than not, the staff may miss out the small ones or neglect to dig up the roots which may sprout again. But if you have the budget, this would be one of the best ways to get rid of them.

Another option would be to use chemicals. And there are plenty of chemicals; ranging from those to be used before the weed seeds germinate – called pre-emergent – to those designed for use on living weeds – called post emergent. Most weedicides or herbicides, for this is the category the chemicals used to kill weeds is called, belong to the post-emergent type.

More often than not, the staff will choose a ‘selective’ herbicide; these are the chemicals that may spare the original grass and kill a certain type or family of weeds. The danger is that if the wrong mixture or rate is used, it may kill the original grass itself.  You might also note that even if it doesn’t kill the original grass, there may be a slight discoloration that will be visible for a week or two.  The opposite of a ‘selective’ herbicide will be a ‘kill-all’ herbicide, for want of a better word.

The staff can also choose to use either a contact herbicide that will kill the weeds it is supposed to on contact or he can choose to use a systemic one, which will be absorbed through the plant and start to kill from within. If he chooses a contact, he may need to use a reliable sprayer so that full coverage can be effected. Otherwise, the herbicide may only kill parts of a grass instead of all of it.

Please be reminded that all the above information is only a fraction of a branch of knowledge used by maintenance staff.  For more information regarding herbicides in particular or weeds in general; get in touch with me.

Posted in Fields, Golf Course, Greens, Landscape, Lanskap, Taman, Topdress | 12 Comments »

Lumut di rumput

Posted by mynormas on November 17, 2011

Lumut atau algae bukan suatu penyakit. Ia adalah simptom kepada satu masalah: masalah kelembapan yang keterlaluan. Kadang-kadang kelembapan di sebabkan oleh:

Lumut bermula di celah-celah rumput

  1. air yang bertakung dan lambat kering,
  2. kawasan redup yang kurang matahari
  3. tanah yang terlalu padat dan tidak mengalirkan air ke bawah.
  4. Terlalu banyak air dari siraman atau hujan.

Rumput akan menjadi semakin jarang kerana akar rumput memerlukan udara untuk bernafas dan jika tanah itu lembab terlalu lama maka akar rumput akan reput atau mati. Algae akan tumbuh kerana algae sesuai atau suka dengan kawasan lembab.

Algae adalah tumbuhan mudah (simple plant) tetapi ia masih memerlukan cahaya matahari untuk membuat makanan.

Jadi untuk mengurangkan algae, kita boleh buat dua perkara; kurangkan kelembapan dan atau menafikan cahaya matahari dari kena kepada algae tersebut. Ada juga pendapat yang mengatakan bahawa algae suka kepada tanah yang sedikit berasid, tetapi dari pengalaman, saya pernah juga jumpa algae di green yang di uji sebagai tanah pH neutral dan green padang golf yang baru di tabur dengan kapur CaCo3.

Menebuk lubang lebih kurang 2 inci supaya air mengalir ke bawah.

Bagaimanapun cadangan saya ialah dengan menebuk lubang kecil di kawasan yang berlumut supaya air boleh mengalir kebawah; kurangkan kelembapan dengan mengurangkan dahan-dahan yang membayangi tanah, melakukan topdressing dengan pasir supaya ‘melemaskan’ algae yang lebih rendah dari rumput dan mengurangkan pengairan serta menambah saliran.

Saya pernah mencakar lumut supaya rumput dapat tumbuh tapi apa yang saya dapati ialah ia akan tumbuh semula selepas beberapa hari jika masalah kelembapan tidak di atasi.

Satu caveat: menebuk lubang di permukaan supaya air mengalir ke bawah hanya berkesan jika bahagian bawah tanah mempunyai saliran yang berkesan (contohnya mempunyai kandungan pasir yang tinggi), tetapi jika bahagian bawah permukaan juga adalah tanah liat atau tanah yang memegang air, maka mungkin terpaksa di korek dalam lagi, menggunakan besi panjang ataupun penggali lubang seperti auger.

Topdress mempunyai 2 kegunaan: 1 ialah menutup lumut dari menerima cahaya matahari dan 2 ialah membantu akar rumput tumbuh di tempat kosong. Tetapi, seperti dalam gambar ini; topdressing sewaktu musim hujan adalah kerja mencabar.

Jika permukaan sahaja yang bermasalah (selalunya kerana di lanyak atau di lenyek) maka kadang-kadang menggunakan sekadar parang tumpul dan mengguris permukaan supaya air tembus algae dan masuk ke bawah.

Selamat mencuba!

Posted in Fields, Greens, Lanskap, Padang Golf, Rumput halaman rumah, Topdress | 1 Comment »

Mountain View Golf Resort

Posted by mynormas on November 3, 2011

October 2011 is the final month of my contract with Mountain View Golf Resort after more than two years. It started in August 2009 when they were still

Green 10 on the 11th of October 2011

known as the club-that-was-formerly-known-as-Kristal. It was closed then. The greens were infested with Serangoon and disease. The fairways were soggy and the tees were not flat (more like overturned woks).

Budget was tight, the staff were mostly new, the old ones were holding a grudge and not really invested in seeing the club’s new owners succeed. They had a former factory manager to look after the place. He doesn’t play or know anything about golf. Strangely; that turned out to be an advantage! Without prior knowledge and because almost no suppliers came to visit (maybe because few people knew they were opening, or because they were out of the way or perhaps because people thought they had no budget) they followed my advice whole-heartedly.

Truth was; as non-golfers but busy and succesful businessmen, the new owners of Kristal were a little tight when it comes to spending money on the golf course. They had about 30 staff over-all, 4 walk-behind greensmower; 1 tractor-mounted fairway mower, 1 tractor-mounted rough mower; 1 trim mower; 1 bunker rake and 1 multi-purpose tractor. They probably spend about RM35-50K a month on maintenance.

Progress was slow. Progress was tough. Progress was tiring. But there was progress.

I forgot which hole this is from. The par-3 near the chicken farm? Green 7. The white dot you see on the green was from a tournament the weekend before.

The fairways, rough and bunkers were drained. The greens were dethatched, aerated, dethatched, aerated, topdressed, weeded, sprayed and I tried something new – in place of grooming, I used a metal drag mat and dragged the green twice a week before mowing. Within a couple of months, the surface was smooth and the grain was minimized. The speed improved too! Two years ago they were about 6feet and now they were  rolling at 8! Its not Augusta, but considering the budget, the machinery, the expertise (the workers cannot mow the greens without dew – I kid you not) I think its better than most golf courses in the Klang Valley.

So now the management feels that it is time they move on to having a maintenance guy of their own (Mr Lee has moved on to become the Club Manager) and hired a superintendent. The parting is cordial – after all it is over the two year period already. And I now have 4 days a month I can offer to other clubs.

Anybody else who wants to transform their golf course are welcomed to contact me at mynormasATconsultant.com

Yeah yeah yeah Mr. Lee, I know, I know; I'm good... You're not too bad yourself.

Mr. Lee on green 1 25th Oct 2011.

Posted in Golf club, Golf Course Superintendents, Greens, Padang Golf | Leave a Comment »

Mowing during rainy weather

Posted by mynormas on October 26, 2011

Mowing during rainy weather is pretty tricky. But if the machine operator does not have disicipline, he/she could turn a wet situation worse. A wet fairway,  rough or field is bad enough but a mower mowing in a wet patch will churn up the ground. You can end

It could've been worse. But more often than not, this is just the beginning.

up with a muddy patch on your field, fairway or rough that will take ages to be brought back to shape. Not to mention you may end up with tyre marks or compaction below the surface.

Ask your operator to back off from mowing that particular area if he finds that he is leaving tyre marks or churning up the ground. He should report it in so that a solution will have to be found if that area could not be mowed for too long. A lighter machine, a push behind or even a back-pack brush cutter may have to be utilized.

Note: you should look at draining or topdressing that particular area when the weather is better.

In the same vein, for those of us who are into striping our fields, fairways or roughs; now may be a good time to not concentrate too much on them too. Alternate mowing patterns for a couple of months won’t make much difference. Remember mowing in the same place all the time (such as when you are mowing for stripes) will make the tyres stay in the same ‘lanes’ all the time thereby creating compaction or worse: ruts. In fact; I would recommend changing patterns once in a while (say every couple of years?)

The stripes look nice, but don't forget you are putting your mower's tyres (tires?) in the same line everytime you mow.

Stripes on a football field.

Posted in Fields, Golf Course Superintendents, Maintenance, Padang Golf, Taman | Leave a Comment »