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Menanam cara ‘sod’

Posted by mynormas on January 24, 2012

Menanam cara sod adalah cara paling biasa digunakan di Malaysia dan pada pendapat saya, cara paling senang tetapi paling selalu salah.

Nampak jer cantik, tapi silap.

Kebaikan cara sod ialah;

1. boleh ditanam hampir dalam sebarang cuaca; musim hujan atau musim kemarau.

2. kawasan yang di tanam cepat tumbuh dan kelihatan rapat.

3. boleh di tanam di kebanyakan kawasan; rata ataupun di tepi bukit.

4. perlukan penjagaan yang kurang berbanding dengan cara lain.

5. Tidak mudah hanyut.

6. Tidak di makan oleh burung (berbeza dengan bijibenih).

Kesilapan atau keburukan sod:

1. Memerlukan jumlah rumput yang lebih banyak berbanding cara lain.

2. Kecuali rumput cow/pearlgrass, hasil padang akan bertompok kerana rumput tidak sama spesis ataupun di susun tidak mengikut ‘grain’.

3. Akar yang pendek, maka rumput tidak lasak. Terutamanya jika penyediaan tapak tidak betul.

4. Tempat bercantum sod boleh kering dan/atau akan kelihatan lama setelah padang digunakan.

5. Berpotensi membawa bersama masalah dari nursery seperti serangga, spora kulat, benih rumpai, telur dinosaur (ha?!), jin tanah (haa?!), makhluk halus (haaa?!) dan sebagainya.

Secara definasi, sod ialah rumput termasuk akar yang di pegang oleh tanah. Biasanya ia adalah lebih besar atau bersamaan dengan 1 kaki persegi. Cara penanaman ialah dengan menanam rapat-rapat dalam susunan seperti menyusun batu bata. Ia boleh juga di susun jarang-jarang sehingga memenuhi 50% luas kawasan. Kurang dari 50% – kita boleh memberi ia nama ‘spot turfing’ yang mempunyai muka lain di laman web ini.

Langkah-langkah penanaman cara ‘sod’.

1. Mengukur luas kawasan.

Berapa luas kawasan yang perlu ditanam dengan rumput? Untuk kawasan rumah, saya cadangkan membeli jumlah sod sama besar atau 80% luas kawasan tersebut, mengikut kemampuan. Biasanya kalau tanam sendiri, kadang-kadang hampir 10% dari sod tak boleh digunakan kerana pecah atau ada rumput liar. Rumput yang pecah boleh digunakan untuk ditanam di kawasan tepi/sempadan, tapi sod yang ada rumput liar mesti dipecahkan dan di tanam di kawasan tepi atau sebagai ‘spare’ untuk repair.

Walaupun Malaysia dah lama bertukar metrik, tetapi sod biasanya di jual dalam kaki persegi.

Cara untuk mengukur luas kawasan yang tidak geometri boleh di baca di sini

2. Membeli sod.

Berbekal dengan pengetahuan berapa luas kawasan (dan budget dalam poket) maka mulalah bershopping. Pastikan kita tahu rumput apa kita mahu dan tidak terpengaruh dengan apa yang kita lihat di nursery.

Bandingkan harga dan utamakan nursery yang kita boleh pilih rumput dan bawa balik (ataupun kita pilih dan dia terus angkat naik lori). Was-waskan nursery yang kita pilih rumput kat showroom  dan dia akan hantar dari nursery dia yang katanya berada 136.7 km dari situ. Kadang-kadang, rumput yang di hantar ke rumah tak sama dengan rumput yang kita pilih.

Jika tak dapat di elakkan (kerana kawasan kita sangat besar atau kita suka shopping kat showroom yang ada aircon dsb) maka beritahu dia yang kita nak ada kat nursery tu masa dia tuai sod. Ada satu lagi alternatif; bahagikan kawasan kepada beberapa sektor, beli dan tanam mengikut sektor. Dengan cara ini, kita tak perlu risau rumput tak sama bersebelahan, kerana sekurang-kurangnya dalam satu sektor, rumput dari keturunan yang sama.

Sekalli lagi saya ulang, masalah rumput tak sama menjadi masalah utama pada rumput jenis ‘carpetgrass’ dan jarang pada cowgrass atau pearlgrass.

3. Penyediaan tapak.

Saya ada satu muka tentang penyediaan tapak dalam laman web ini. Tapi pendek katanya, di bawah sod itu perlu ada tanah yang agak peroi dan boleh di tembusi oleh akar. Satu masalah ialah bila tanah bawah terlalu mampat dan akar rumput hanya berada di dalam sod. Bila hujan lebat, sod akan ‘terapung’. Bila kering, sod akan mati kerana akar terlalu pendek.

Bagaimanapun, sila baca tentang penyediaan tapak di sini

4. Menyusun sod

Comot tapi betul.

Nampak tak sod di susun air tidak boleh mengalir bebas dari kiri ke kanan?

Kesilapan paling asas yang saya tengok orang buat ialah bila dia tanam sod dia mengikut garisan yang membenarkan air mengalir. Jika kita menyusun sod, susun supaya ia menyerupai orang susun batu bata; bata yang di atas akan melintang di atas sambungan bata di bawah. Dengan cara ini, air tidak mempunyai satu ‘lorong’ untuk mengalir dan membawa baja, pasir dan rumput.

Jika kita membeli 100% sod (ertinya jika luas kawasan anda ialah 120 kaki persegi dan anda beli 120kaki sod) menyusun adalah mudah. Jika kita  membeli hanya 80% atau kurang, mulakan dengan bahagian paling penting kawasan kita contohnya depan rumah, kotak penalti, tengah green dan sebagainya. Saya tahu ada orang yang akan mulakan dengan sempadan dan menanam ketengah, tapi jika kita kehabisan rumput atau salah budget, maka tengah akan lompong/kosong. Mulakan dari satu sisi dan pilih sisi yang paling penting untuk kita (pedulikan apa orang lain kata)dan tanam ke arah yang tak penting. Kalau sod nampak macam tak cukup, maka kawasan yang kurang penting tu kita boleh tanam kemudian ATAU, kita boleh jarakkan lebih sikit baki sod yang ada untuk mencukupkan kawasan yang – ahem – kurang penting tadi. Jadi, kalau di rumah, kita tanam dari depan ke belakang (contohnya) dan di pejabat kita tanam dari depan ofis bos ke luar dan sebagainya.

Untuk padang golf dan padang bola. Ada lagi yang saya tak cerita kat sini. Ada orang yang ciplak kerja saya sebagai kerja mereka. Sekarang ada bahagian untuk orang komersil yang saya simpan. Sorry. Nak tahu? Email saya dan kenalkan diri.

5. Tanam sod.

Menanam dengan rapi. Sod dan luas kawasan 100%

Ada orang tanam dengan cara mengorek tanah dan meletakkan sod ke dalam. Ada orang melakukan dengan cara hanya meletakkan sod ke atas tanah. Kedua-dua cara betul, tapi lazimnya jika menanam 100%, kita boleh hanya letakkan sod atas tanah, dan jika 80% atau kurang, kita akan tanam dia supaya dia tidak ‘lari’ dari kedudukan.

Jika kita meletakkan sahaja sod di atas tanah dan tanah itu sedikit curam, kita mungkin terpaksa menggunakan paku yang diperbuat dari kayu atau bahan mudah-urai lain.

Apapun, pastikan tanah bawah TIDAK keras.

6. Siram.

Siram serta-merta lepas tanam. Siram hingga tanah bawah basah. Untuk seminggu dua lepas itu, pastikan tanah di bahagian bawah sod basah di waktu pagi dan tengahari (perasan tak, saya tak kata ‘siram’?)

Selepas itu, JANGAN siram sehari sekali atau sehari dua kali, siram bila keadaan memerlukan. Ertinya, bila tanah di bawah sod kering; siram. Jangan siram lepas pukul 3 petang. Rumput yang basah hingga ke malam akan mengundang penyakit dan lumut.

Jangan pijak rumput tu untuk lebih kurang sebulan sehinggalah akar rumput dah tumbuh.

Mula potong pada minggu ke lima, jangan potong lebih dari satu pertiga ketinggian rumput. Lepas dua minggu turun kan ketinggian, lepas tu dua minggu lagi, hinggalah mencapai ketinggian yang kita mahu.

Mulai minggu ke empat, topdress seminggu sekali dengan nipis. Tujuan topdress ialah supaya pasir masuk ke kawasan yang tak rata dan meratakan permukaan tanpa melemaskan rumput. Ratakan pasir dengan tangan atau kayu ‘T’ dan siram. Jangan potong sehari lepas topdress, nanti pasir berterbangan.

Mulai minggu ke enam, mulai merumpai. Bahagikan kawasan anda kepada seksyen2 kecil dan merumpai dalam satu seksyen selama satu hari. Esok (atau hari seterusnya) merumpai di seksyen kedua, hari seterusnya di seksyen ketiga dan ulang. Dalam masa tiga bulan kita seharusnya akan dapat laman yang kita idamkan.

insyaAllah.

Selamat mencuba!

Bagaimana sod di tuai di nursery.

Ini adalah permukaan bunker padang golf yang senget dan boleh rosak akibat hujan lebat.

rumput yang pendek akar (dan nyawa) mati dulu.

Rumput dah di tanam tapi tak di siram.

Posted in Fields, Golf Course, Lanskap, Maintenance, Padang, Padang Golf, Rumput, Rumput halaman rumah, Taman | Tagged: , , , , | Leave a Comment »

Penjagaan rumput musim tengkujuh

Posted by mynormas on December 14, 2011

Di sini saya sertakan beberapa tip yang boleh digunakan di padang golf, padang bola, lain-lain padang rumput turf dan/atau halaman rumah.

  1. Membaja pada waktu ini hampir boleh di ibaratkan mencurah air ke daun keladi. Baja tersebut akan mengalir ke dalam longkang, sungai, parit ataupun tasik di sekeliling. Hentikan guna baja terutamanya jika baja tersebut tidak mempunyai bahan ‘slow-release’. Sebaiknya; gunakan baja foliar yang boleh di serap dengan pantas oleh rumput. Sembur sedikit tetapi selalu.
  2. Elakkan atau kurangkan penyemburan racun serangga. Jika terpaksa; perhatikan cuaca. Jika hujan lewat petang; sembur awal pagi. Cuba untuk gunakan racun serangga jenis sistemik (racun serap) yang akan masuk ke dalam rumput dan menjadikan rumput ‘tak sesuai’ di makan oleh serangga.
  3. Elakkan atau kurangkan penyemburan racun kulat. Jika terdapat masalah penyakit; cuba dahulu untuk mengatasinya dengan menaikkan ketinggian potongan (jangan TAK potong), kurangkan trafik lalu di kawasan berpenyakit (kurangkan sebaran dan stress), pangkas pokok atau alih perabot untuk menambah aliran udara dan cahaya matahari. Jika penyakit berterusan, lihat langkah penggunaan racun serangga di atas.
  4. Jangan benarkan mesin atau alat yang berat untuk masuk ke dalam padang yang basah. Ini akan memburukkan mampatan kerana padang yang basah akan bersifat lembut. Membenarkan mesin masuk akan meninggalkan kesan tayar yang akan berlarutan hingga berbulan-bulan. Ia juga akan menyebabkan lecak atau becak yang memburukkan pandangan. Jika tanah tidak terlalu basah/lembik dan anda terpaksa memotong JANGAN potong mengikut garisan/stripe kerana ini akan meletak tayar di atas garis dan boleh membuat lekuk.
  5. Cuba gunakan plant growth regulator (PGR) seperti Primo untuk melambatkan pertumbuhan.
  6. Tebuk tanah dengan spiker, slicer, solid-tine, hollow-tine kecil dan apa-apa saja (pen lama, garfu lama dan sebagainya)

    Menebuk lubang di kawasan berlumut. Lumut adalah simptom kelembapan tinggi. Bantu air mengalir di kawasan berlumut.

    supaya membantu air dan udara untuk masuk kebawah. Tebuk sekurang-kurangnya setengah inci (asalkan tembus thatch).

  7. Sembur agen pembasah tanah (soil wetting agent) untuk membantu air turun. Sembur pada waktu tanah tidak tepu dengan air.

Sentiasa baca label, gunakan pekera yang terlatih dan gunakan akal sebelum menyembur sebarang jenis bahan kimia ataupun baja. Jika ragu-ragu; hubungi Pakar Rumput.

Posted in Fields, Golf Course, Lanskap, Padang Golf, Rumput halaman rumah, Taman | Tagged: , | Leave a Comment »

Golf Malaysia: An interview.

Posted by mynormas on November 25, 2011

In November 2011 issue of Golf Malaysia, I talked about why golf courses (this applies to homeowners too) who don’t think they can’t afford high maintenance cost in the future, should stick to local grasses.  Why bother spending so much money buying and growing in imported grasses during the initial construction – or renovation – and then let it all go to waste in the next five years due to poor maintenance? I know:- some people will argue that “the grasses are actually not imported, we bought/got them from a neighbour” but it is still grasses that came from overseas and require high maintenance.

But why not plant local grasses or grasses that have adapted to local conditions that will require cheaper maintenance? After all, the first part of Integrated Pest Management is about selecting the right plant for the location.

It is a long interview. What you see here is only the 1st page. Get your copy at the newsstand and most respectable golf clubs or Pro-shop. Or go to www.golfmalaysia.com.my to subscribe.

Posted in Golf Course, Golf Course Superintendents, Padang, Padang Golf, Rumput secara am, Taman | Tagged: , , , , | Leave a Comment »

Weeds

Posted by mynormas on November 18, 2011

Most people don’t pay too much attention to those grasses that don’t seem to belong to the rest of the grasses surrounding them. The reason being those grasses doesn’t usually impose themselves on people.  Other than aesthetics that is. Even if the grasses seem – at first glance – to be similar, there is that slight difference in colour, texture or something that makes people dislike.

What are these grasses?  How did they come to be where they are?  Why are they left alone?  How do we get rid of them? Should we get rid of them?  What are they called?

They are called – other than the colourful names some people use to describe them – weeds.

A weed is defined as a plant that grows where it is not wanted. So, because of the  definition, a rare black orchid growing in the middle of a fairway would be attacked by changkul-wielding workers before we can finish saying “Rare black orchid is a weed?” Similarly, a banana plant three feet from the pin on a green is a weed, never mind the nutritional qualities of a banana.

These weeds are called ‘sedges’ and they love wet areas.

Weeds are transplanted in many ways. Assuming a particular golf course or field or taman is constructed, planted and maintained to perfection (this would presumably be on Planet Krypton), weeds can be transported by wind, animals, water, humans or machinery.  Sometimes it could also inadvertently be transported by the maintenance staff when they borrow a machine or equipment from another place. This does not only necessarily mean from one golf course to another, but also from one hole to another in the same golf course.

Why Weeds Happen – During Construction.

You would think that no one would plant a weed on their field. No one intentionally would; but sometimes that’s what happens when the owner/manager purchases new planting material like seeds, stolons or sods. To cut cost the planting material might be purchased from the nursery that gave them the lowest quote.  Chances are that these nurseries may not apply the best management practices to ensure weed-free materials. How else can they quote so cheap?

Are they planting pure grass stolons are are there weeds seeds mixed in? Did you check? By now, can anyone check?

What some nurseries do is to regularly mow their plots to keep most weeds down to the same height as the surrounding grasses.  And when they smell a potential sale, they do a hurried manual weeding job before the buyer’s representative arrives for an inspection visit.

For golf courses, this may be the same scenario if we get our planting material – especially in big quantities – from the award-winning golf course that our boss has friendly relations with.  You don’t think they will rip off their best greens and fairways to give us the stolons do you?  You might as well ask for their right arm.  We may get away with getting the stolons during their renovation works like hollow-tining or verti-cutting.  Just be aware that it’s almost impossible to be weed free on all 18 holes (we are not on Planet Krypton) and a verti-cutter machine going on a weed the size of the palm of your hand will create hundreds of tiny baby weeds waiting to sprout on the golf course.

Actually, the story can begin long before the first planting material is purchased.  It starts when the soil is being prepared for planting.  When the earth was pushed to make way for a golf course, or when the soil is expertly shaped waiting for the planting of the seeds or stolons of the chosen species of grass, it contains planting material of many different species of plants. Each and every viable seed is a potential weed waiting for the right time to sprout.

There are, of course ways to treat the soil – from simply turning the soil over to expose the seeds to sunlight to the complex way of covering it with plastic sheets and injecting it with chemicals – which, by the way, should only be done by licensed applicators.

If you are planting your own field/lawn visit the nursery, ask the supplier to show you which part of nursery they want to harvest for you, then on planting day, insist that they do NOT harvest before you or your rep being there. You don’t want them to show you one part of the nursery then harvest from another part to plant in your field/lawn.

Why Weeds Happen – During Maintenance

As so often is the case, an ill-advised attempt at cost reduction is usually the root cause of many evils when aesthetics is one of the performance indicators.  You will hear me repeat this line often: nothing is free in this world; we will pay for it one way or another. Maintain the grass poorly, it will not grow well and, in this instance, will provide an opportunity for weeds to move in.  We will eventually spend money to remove the weeds from the golf course. This paragraph will still hold true when I write about disease or pests in the golf course in future articles.

Poor maintenance can cause weeds, this drainage line was left open. So weed came in.

In short; do not expect the maintenance staff to cut costs to the point the grass’ health suffers.  Starve it if you must. But make it suffer it you mustn’t.

In the quest for being environmentally friendly, some golf courses used organic fertilizers to feed their grasses. Now, these organic fertilizers are good food for the soil as much as it is good for the grass, but if we calculate on the amount of nutrient it can deliver, it may prove to be quite expensive. Fertilizer made from organic products that are not properly treated may contain weed seeds. Chicken dung and other animal waste or even products made from plant waste may be contaminated at source or during the process to turn it into plant food.

There is a legend of how a Superintendent of a golf course placed an order of several tons of processed chicken dung fertilizer.  The purchasing clerk, who with good intentions, believes that all chicken dung are alike proceeded to buy the cheapest one available.  The cost of weeding the golf course in the months afterward probably is much higher than the savings on the purchase of the fertilizer.

Weeds can occur in places where there is compaction, such as high-traffic area. Or wet/damp areas. Or dry sandy areas. Different weeds will thrive and specialise in different areas.

The Cure

So now you know where weeds has its roots (pun intended) and you want to roll up your sleeves and ask your maintenance staff on how you can help fight this scourge on the grass field.

How does the staff take care of the weeds?  He/she has quite a few things in his arsenal. First and foremost are the mechanical means, which includes sending an army of labourers digging up the weeds with small screwdriver-like implements. It works to a certain extent; at the very least it controls the population of the weeds. More often than not, the staff may miss out the small ones or neglect to dig up the roots which may sprout again. But if you have the budget, this would be one of the best ways to get rid of them.

Another option would be to use chemicals. And there are plenty of chemicals; ranging from those to be used before the weed seeds germinate – called pre-emergent – to those designed for use on living weeds – called post emergent. Most weedicides or herbicides, for this is the category the chemicals used to kill weeds is called, belong to the post-emergent type.

More often than not, the staff will choose a ‘selective’ herbicide; these are the chemicals that may spare the original grass and kill a certain type or family of weeds. The danger is that if the wrong mixture or rate is used, it may kill the original grass itself.  You might also note that even if it doesn’t kill the original grass, there may be a slight discoloration that will be visible for a week or two.  The opposite of a ‘selective’ herbicide will be a ‘kill-all’ herbicide, for want of a better word.

The staff can also choose to use either a contact herbicide that will kill the weeds it is supposed to on contact or he can choose to use a systemic one, which will be absorbed through the plant and start to kill from within. If he chooses a contact, he may need to use a reliable sprayer so that full coverage can be effected. Otherwise, the herbicide may only kill parts of a grass instead of all of it.

Please be reminded that all the above information is only a fraction of a branch of knowledge used by maintenance staff.  For more information regarding herbicides in particular or weeds in general; get in touch with me.

Posted in Fields, Golf Course, Greens, Landscape, Lanskap, Taman, Topdress | 6 Comments »

Mowing during rainy weather

Posted by mynormas on October 26, 2011

Mowing during rainy weather is pretty tricky. But if the machine operator does not have disicipline, he/she could turn a wet situation worse. A wet fairway,  rough or field is bad enough but a mower mowing in a wet patch will churn up the ground. You can end

It could've been worse. But more often than not, this is just the beginning.

up with a muddy patch on your field, fairway or rough that will take ages to be brought back to shape. Not to mention you may end up with tyre marks or compaction below the surface.

Ask your operator to back off from mowing that particular area if he finds that he is leaving tyre marks or churning up the ground. He should report it in so that a solution will have to be found if that area could not be mowed for too long. A lighter machine, a push behind or even a back-pack brush cutter may have to be utilized.

Note: you should look at draining or topdressing that particular area when the weather is better.

In the same vein, for those of us who are into striping our fields, fairways or roughs; now may be a good time to not concentrate too much on them too. Alternate mowing patterns for a couple of months won’t make much difference. Remember mowing in the same place all the time (such as when you are mowing for stripes) will make the tyres stay in the same ‘lanes’ all the time thereby creating compaction or worse: ruts. In fact; I would recommend changing patterns once in a while (say every couple of years?)

The stripes look nice, but don't forget you are putting your mower's tyres (tires?) in the same line everytime you mow.

Stripes on a football field.

Posted in Fields, Golf Course Superintendents, Maintenance, Padang Golf, Taman | Leave a Comment »

Choosing grass

Posted by mynormas on October 18, 2011

One of the most common question I get asked is; what type of grass should I use?

There are actually three important criteria to think about when choosing grass, and I write this in layman terms, mainly:

  1.  The condition of the area – whether it is shaded, it gets too much water (for example it is next to non-porous area e.g. road or pavement or perhaps it is out in the open with poor or no irrigation).
  2. The budget for future maintenance of the grassed area and
  3. The use of the grassed area; simply whether it is more for aesthetics or more as a playing field. In the golf course, this question will also refer to whether that area is a green or a rough.

Now for home-owners (and I get a lot more questions from these people) I usually tell them the order of priority will be 1. The condition of the area; 2. The budget and time they are willing to spend on maintenance and 3. The use; whether the lawn is for impressing passers-by or is it for grandchildren to play on? Stuff like that.

The Bermuda carpetgrass planted at cost under the bamboo? Dead. The Cowgrass that came on its own for free? Nice. Lesson? Use cowgrass under shade.

For golf courses, playing fields, stadiums and large areas like municipal councils, the order of priority is reversed: I ask them to think of what is the use of the area – whether it is for greens, for tees, for out-of-play areas,

football, picnic, or whatever. Then they should think of the budget they are willing to spend for maintenance (and I would like to emphasise FOR MAINTENANCE) and lastly only about the condition of the area. Why is the order reversed? Because, for these kind of construction, the condition can be modified, trees can be moved, or the green can be redesigned away from the large 100 year-old tree, for instance.

Most of these owners, be them developers, local government or large bungalow owners etc, will have a huge budget during construction but when it comes to routine daily maintenance; they scrimp and save.

Zoysia is a nice grass but needs to be cut once a week - at least. If you can't afford to do that, why use it?

So what I advise is: design and pick plants for the place so that it will be cheap and easy to maintain in the future! Naturally,  people want the best and most designers/contractors who are paid by percentage don’t mind at all to oblige.

But I digress. The world of grass is divided into three main areas; warm-season and cool-season. The third area? What is termed as the transition zone area, this area is cold enough in the winter to make it difficult to maintain warm-season grasses and warm enough in the summer to make it difficult to grow cool-season grasses, therefore, no single species of grass is well adapted in this region.

So there are only two types of grasses; warm-season and cool-season grasses. In the transition zone areas, they will use quick growing cool-season grasses in the autumn and early winter and warm-season grasses in spring/summer.

What are the characteristics of warm season grasses? They thrive in air temperatures from 27 – 35 degrees Celsius and soil temperatures of 21 – 32 degrees Celsius. They’ll lose chlorophyll in autumn and turn from green to brown.

Cool-season grasses grow very well when soil temperature is between 10 – 18 degrees Celsius and air temperatures a cool 15 – 24 degrees Celsius.

Tall fescue is a cool-season grass

Other than those, there are of course a few other things that should be taken into consideration too. Soil types, quality of water for irrigation – in fact, quantity of water too; there are a few other things if we want to go into details. But lets leave it at that for now.

 

Weights and Measures, Metric Conversions Weights and Measures,
Metric Conversions


Posted in Fields, Greens, Landscape, Lanskap, Maintenance, Padang, Padang Golf, Rumput, Rumput halaman rumah, Rumput secara am, Taman | Tagged: , , , | Leave a Comment »

Menyiram rumput

Posted by mynormas on October 16, 2011

Bagaimana patut kita menyiram rumput? Ada dua tiga sebab kita menyiram rumput.

  1. Kerana rumput memerlukan. Diantara tanda-tanda: tanah kering atau rumput layu: ini ertinya perlu siram.
  2. Kerana kita meletakkan bahan keatas rumput yang perlu di siram supaya ia meresap ke tanah. Contohnya baja, setengah jenis racun, bahan pelembab (wetting agent),  topdressing dan sebagainya.
  3. Kerana cuaca terlalu panas dan kita menyejukkan permukaan tanah untuk melindungi akar rerambut atau menurunkan suhu permukaan. Siraman ini dinamakan ‘syringing’ dan bukan bertujuan memberi rumput air; HANYA untuk menyejukkan permukaan. Ertinya siraman dua minit biasanya mencukupi. Untuk kawasan yang rumput di potong pendek, contohnya green di padang golf (3-6mm) kadang kadang syringing di lakukan hingga dua kali sehari (contohnya kul 11pagi dan 2 petang)

Jangan, jangan, jangan siram mengikut jadual. Contohnya setiap Isnin, Rabu dan Jumaat. Atau setiap hari pukul 4pagi. Jangan siram jika ia akan menyebabkan tanah lembab hingga ke malam: ini akan menyebabkan penyakit. Ertinya elakkan menyiram di kebanyakkan tempat selepas pukul 5 petang (ada tempat pukul 3petang pun dah tak boleh siram contohnya jika tempat yang teduh).

Amalkan siram di awal pagi. Ini memberi peluang tanah menyimpan air hingga ke tengahari di waktu ia paling memerlukan air. Menyiram di waktu petang; rumput mungkin kata “Aku dah nak mati kering baru kau nak siram!” dan juga akan menyebabkan tanah lembab hingga ke malam yang boleh menggalakkan kulat dan lumut.  Lagipun waktu pagi kurang angin yang menyebarkan air terlalu jauh/dekat (bergantung arah angin dan arah air).

Berapa lama nak siram? Siram jarang-jarang tapi lama-lama (Water irregularly but deeply). Ini akan menggalakkan akar tumbuh panjang mencari air. Siraman terlalu kerap akan memanjakan rumput. Pasal tu kita siram hanya bila rumput memerlukan, bukan ikut jadual. Biasanya saya siram 20 minit. Tapi awas, untuk kawasan yang terlalu curam atau tanah yang padat (air akan bertakung atau mengalir dan tidak masuk ke dalam tanah) saya mungkin akan menyiram 10minit x 2 ataupun 5minit x 4; tunggu hingga air meresap… dan ulang. Perkara ini perlukan pemerhatian dan pemahaman.  Lain tanah, lain siraman.

Sprinkler irrigation in a golf course

Sprinkler irrigation in a golf course.

Posted in Fields, Golf club, Landscape, Padang, Padang Golf, Rumput halaman rumah, Taman | Leave a Comment »

Managing Malaysian lovegrass (C. aciculatus)

Posted by mynormas on September 15, 2011

Lets not kid ourselves, there are many Malaysian golf courses, football fields and tamans that are plagued by the lovegrass (presumably named because it loves our pants). I have seen golfers comments that hate a particular golf course because that golf course has a lot of lovegrass on its fairways.

Lets start a discussion – although from experience this ‘discussion’ will end up being a monologue – but lets discuss anyway. Lets clarify what is ‘lovegrass’. Its that type of plant that has seeds that sticks to pants or socks. The leaf are light green. It is sometimes called as ‘kemuncup’ in some places in Malaysia. In the U.S it is called as the pilipiliula or golden false beardgrass or false beardgrass (http://plants.usda.gov/java/profil

This field was cut about 5 days ago! But the amount of lovegrass now would make a pious man curse...

e?symbol=CHAC) and Mackie’s pest.

What ever it is called I am sure most of us agree that it is a pest.

The leaf and the plant per se is tolerable but it is the seeds and how they were made to propagate that gets most golfers, footballers, joggers (or their wife, mom or maid) worked up. They stick to the pants and socks with no regard to price, brand or label.

Why on earth Malaysians called it love grass is a mystery.

It is also a stubborn pest. The only effective selective pesticide I know that we can use against it is Facet (available in Malaysia). Of course you can use Round-up but that may fall into the ‘overkill’ territory.

It resists mowing with regular reel mower, no matter what brand or how many reels. I have had arguments with two golf course superintendents (actually, make that three but in the end that one guy bought a rotary mower though I suspect it could be because of the price)   who insisted to buy five-gang reel mowers even though their fairways are infested with lovegrass. Why? Because all the other golf courses use a five-gang how can I use a tractor mounted rotary mower?

I have pictures of this golf course with better stripes; but no tractor, so this will have to do. Not to mention that I'm late already. Just take my word that rotarys make stripes

Using Facet has its drawbacks, one of it (other than price) is that it affects cowgrass. I am currently helping a Superintendent testing a few rates of Facet to see which will not kill cowgrass permanently. Lets see what happens; I have my doubts because as I see it, there is just too much lovegrass on his fairways. In my opinion, he would be better off changing his old five-gangs with second-hand mini-tractors equipped with new rotary mowers and mow twice or thrice a week.

Newsflash: Facet kills lovegrass. But the broadleaf survives! Not the cowgrass. And those are RM240 Hush Puppies.

Of course, if your golf course, field, taman or lawn that was planted with Bermuda or Zoysia, by all means; spray it out. Unfortunately, if your bla bla bla was planted (or is now covered) with cowgrass or Serangoon then your options are limited: if not much or only a few areas are invaded by lovegrass – you still could do chemical control. Otherwise you may have to replant (though I would still advise you to use chemical first to ensure no seeds or roots are left behind to continue) or buy new rotary mowers. For lawn owners, you may need to buy your own cutters or adopt one of the foreigner-who-mows-house-lawns as ‘anak angkat’.

Plus, a certain brand of golf course machinery is now coming out with five-gang rotary mowers too so you don’t lose your prestige when talking to other peers at the networking dinner of the club/stadium/local council/dewan bandaraya. And don’t worry, rotary mowers can make stripes as well as reel mowers too.

Try it.

The lovegrass just springs back up behind the mower. But notice that the leaves are quite nice.

Posted in Fields, Golf club, Golf Course Superintendents, lovegrass, Padang, Padang Golf, Taman | 1 Comment »

How big is yours?

Posted by mynormas on August 17, 2011

I am amazed and amused when I found out that there are still golf courses in Malaysia that do not know the size of their greens. Some that DO know, has the figures handed down to them over the generations since construction began during the Malacca Sultanate. The measurement came in ‘hasta and jengkal’ which was converted to feet and inches during the British Occupation and finally to meters. And get this; the size of the green was measured by the construction company. Why the owners  trusted the measurements of the company in the first place is anybody’s guess. Why the current Superintendent persisted with measurements done by people he(or she) doesn’t know is a mystery. Why can’t golf courses measure their greens once a year or couple of years?

Ok. Forgive my outburst. “Why do people need to know the size of the greens?” you ask. And before people who don’t manage golf courses turn away, this goes for any turf area too: you need to know the size of the area to manage it better. Stadiums, football fields, lawn-owners, parks, tuan rumah, majlis daerah etc etc.

I mean, how do you know how much fertilizer to put on each area? How much fertilizer should you buy? What should your budget be for fertilizer next year? Not just fertilizer too, fungicides, insecticides, growth regulators, wetting agents, machinery etc.

Yeah, yeah, yeah, I’ve heard the excuse “I use the setting on the fertilizer spreader/chemical applicator”. But fertilizer granules comes in different size and weight, how do you justify using the same setting for one fertilizer that looks like flour and another that is as big as pebbles? You think the same amount of fertilizer will come out? And how about for stuff that has recommendation of kilogram per hectare or gram per square meter, how do you measure that? And if your soil test report say: apply 5 pounds of CaCo3 per 1,000 square feet, how do you measure that?

How many people actually calibrate their fertilizer spreaders and chemical applicators anyway? Once a week? Once a year? Or only one time; purchase time?

Grr… just last week I had a (small) argument with a guy who insisted that it is ok to put one bag of fertilizer for every green. All greens. He doesn’t grasp that  small greens will have received a lot of nutrients and big greens will have received less. I am not surprised. That was how I was taught 17 years ago by a local Superintendent with 20 years experience; until a foreign superintendent came in and

For calibration only. Not suited on the ground (unless you want to draw little squares on green)

taught me otherwise. But still, in this age of environmental-friendliness, expensive fertilizer and cheap knowledge, there are still these kind of things?

Not knowing the size is also one reason why if you go into the store and you see leftover fertilizer/chemicals from years ago.

I once saved a club one bag of fertilizer for every round of fertilizing (at that time he was fertilizing once every two weeks) by measuring his greens. So you see, its worth it. And you should do it periodically since sometimes greens are shrunk by workers mowing at 6.00 am (or increase in size).

Measuring size is easy. For football fields or other geomatrically shaped area (square, round, triangle etc) you probably just have to find the right formula. For areas that do not have regular shapes; there are two ways of doing it. In both cases you need a sketch of the area or greens.

1. Put in geometrically correct shapes in it and measure those shapes. You may need quite a lot of water-based paint, a length of rope, one or two metal spike and measuring tape. First sketch out the geometry shapes on paper, then mark the boundaries of the shapes on the ground (you don’t need to draw the whole circle, only where you want to measure and where it touches the boundary of another shape or the end of the area/green). Put the stake in the ground where the center of the circle is; tie a rope to it and tie a know to where you want the circle to … well… circle.

Putting (imaginary) geometry shapes

2. Find the longest part of the area/green. Measure that and consider it as distance A to B. Divide the distance into a few equidistances; I usually use 10 because I find it easy to divide any length by 10. Actually, the more equidistance (what does that actually mean?) you have the more accurate your calculation. Then measure the length of each equidistance and find the average. Lastly multiply distance of A-B with average length of equidistance and you get the size.

Its almost like lenght x width. Except that you get width by averaging the length of several  equidistant lines.

Irregular shape - size measurement.

The first picture above is drawn with Excel and is used to calibrate whether my two calculations method are correct. I assumed one Excel box is 1m x 1m. By calculating the number of boxes I get the size of the area.

 

Weights and Measures, Metric Conversions Weights and Measures,
Metric Conversions


Posted in Fields, Greens, Landscape, Padang Golf, Taman | Leave a Comment »

A slow green is better than a fast brown

Posted by mynormas on July 16, 2011

I just came back from a golf course in north Malaysia where the weather has been hazy; little sunlight. But at the same time, in central region, we are having thunderstorms/heavy rains in the evenings with about the same result; little sunlight.

For both situations, I would advise people to raise their cutting heights. But please don’t stop or skipping mowing. Just mow higher. For green, raise it by 0.5mm and for fairways and fields, well, if the weather doesn’t improve soon or when you start to notice that you are cutting more leaf or the grass starts turning brown after mowing; raise your mowers by a notch or by 2mm.

For rough or fields under shade (trees, buildings etc) you may need to take action sooner.

Remember that grass is a plant that uses photosynthesis to make food and that process needs sunlight to work. If there is not enough sunlight, the leaf and stem will start to lengthen

Same grass. Gues which one got not enough sunlight

. When they lengthen and you cut at the same height; you are cutting off more leaf than usual.

The usual response I get to that advice is: but my greenspeed will be slower! And my usual answer is: A slow green is better than a fast brown.

Posted in Fields, Greens, Padang, Rumput secara am, Taman | Leave a Comment »

 
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